Advice for Blondeaholics (Excerpts from our Podcast "Hair Matters" . available on Itunes, Spotify, Sticher, Alexa and more featuring Noelle & Aurora.  To listen copy & paste this link https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/blonde-hair-lightening-techniques-for-clients-stylists/id1464075880?i=1000442099539

Advice for Blondeaholics

 

1) When considering blonde it is so important to have an in depth color consultation which should be complimentary..  You need to be realistic about your hair, what processes are done to your hair, your natural color, and most importantly be honest with your stylist.

2)  As a stylist, you need to educate your client on what goals are reasonable,  dark hair color can not become blonde in 1 session (so many stylists memes about this), look at pictures and options.  You need to set realistic goals. Understand that blonde hair requires more maintenance, professional products and frequent visits to the salon.  As stylists we like to let our client know the processes we are doing with confidence

Take hair for a test drive with strand testing to avoid bleach that melts hair!

All Over Blonde with bleach and tone should be done by the most experienced colorist.  

When applying bleach directly to the scalp, hair thickness, density and color is paramount.  If there is previous bleach in the hair - it is probably better to go for a balayage or ombre

 

Stylists no your worth, time is money & clients understand this is a timely and costly process.

Tip:     

 Thicker hair apply bleach from back to front so you can rinse back if it comes up quicker

  1. Don’t be afraid to adjust developer levels for even results
  2. Consider the salon temperature and adjust developer
  3. Sometimes slow & steady wins the race, how do you feel about 40 volume developer
  4. Avoid overlapping and consider using foils to add heat vs. using an overhead dryer
  5. Use cotton in between sections
  6. Olaplex or Bond builder

Toning - Shades Eq easy to distribute, sometimes a more pigmented formula with  6 to 10 vol for stubborn hair.

Use a Hair Color Removal process, this is how to get people much lighter and on their way to blonde in one visit.  Not for all, but a healthy way to start. Fantasy shades require pre-lightened hair especially pastels

Babylights vs. Foils

 

Achieves all over blonde with root dimension

Weave fine sections of small amounts of hair - keep the roots or soften with the roots (melt)

Achieves a heavy highlight blonde and some free hand paint the drop out pieces with clay bleach for even more light effect.

Foils use a heavy weave, tighter weave with dimension add lowlights for more depth

Balayage Blonde

In french means to sweep with paint - a free hand painted hair technique with darker roots and perfectly placed lights. 

 Painted with a board in a V pattern with heavier saturation of bleach at the mid shaft & ends

Back comb sections to avoid sharp lines

 Lasts longer !

It looks effortless, but the placement is quite thoughtful

Lighten the roots for a more sun kissed look

Can be done on any color or length

I love the money pieces in the front - there is a new technique called “Framilage” which is a balayage with special attention paid to lighter face frame.

Foilayage

The balayage technique of your choice,  hair is wrapped in a foil to hold in heat and reach max incubation to bring the hair very blonde vs. open air processing.  

Root/Color Melting

Softens a darker root, blends & blurrs balayage lines.  Apply desired color to the root & swipe down or comb.  

Can use to reverse balayage

You can get creative a literally use a mix of all techniques on 1 head!    That is what makes a true artist.  

 

Toners:

Ash toners make hair appear darker while gold toners appear lighter.

Please do not bleach hair at home, it is nearly impossible to avoid overlapping when applying color on your own hair.  Remember bleach swells and when it does - breakage will occur.  For more info contact noelle@noellesalon.com










Topics: Hair Coloring, How to keep blonde hair bright

Noelle Spinosa

Written by Noelle Spinosa

Noelle Spinosa has been hair stylist for over 25 years. She has been featured on television in Chronicle Magazine, Channel 7 News and the WB morning Show. Noelle has also been highlighted in both the Boston Globe and the Boston Herald for her in depth knowledge of hair extensions.